How to measure Twenty minutes
with a tape.
Made-to-measure means your tracks only fit your opening, so this is the one part worth doing slowly. Watch it done, or take the printed guide up the ladder.
Take it up the ladder
The same guide on one sheet, with somewhere to write your numbers. Print it before you start — a phone on a stepladder is a phone on the floor.
Download the guideThe three numbers
These are the limits that decide whether we can make it at all. Check the first one before you measure anything else.
- 4 cm
Clearance under the glass
Between the underside of the glass and the bottom of the rafter. The one figure that can rule the whole thing out.
- 120 cm
Widest one section
Between the rafters, not across the glass. A wider roof simply has more sections.
- 600 cm
Longest one section
Front to back, down the fall of the roof.
The order to do it in
- Check the clearance under the glass first. If it is not there, nothing else matters.
- Measure the width from the inside of one rafter to the inside of the next.
- Measure that width again at the other end of the bay, and keep the smaller number.
- Measure the depth from the front of the bay to the back.
- Do that for every bay separately. They are rarely identical.
The two that cost a remake
Measuring the glass
The glass sits on top of the rafters and is wider than the gap between them. Measure it and every track will be too wide to go in.
Measuring one bay and multiplying
Out of square is normal and completely fine — each section is cut on its own. Assuming bay three matches bay one is not.
Got your numbers?
The configurator asks for each section separately, shows the price as you go, and puts a drawing of your own opening in the box.